The Ancient Uzbeki City That’s New Again

“With a kitchen helmed by a fourth-generation chef whose great-grandfather cooked for the Bukharan emir, Osh Joy is known for its excellent osh sofi — a local take on plov (the traditional Uzbek rice, vegetable and meat dish) cooked in an old-fashioned copper cauldron. Pair it with pickled tomatoes and cucumbers.” S.A.

Joy Gastro Restaurant, in an old caravansary [Silk Road-era roadside inn] in the city’s historic center, combines ancient architecture with attentive service and exceptional cuisine. Order kaish, made from layers of thin pasta and beef or lamb, and try to visit on a night when live traditional music is performed, which adds to the charm. The restaurant is almost always full, so reservations are crucial.” — Abdulvakhid Bukhoriy Karimov

“Though not well known to tourists, Palmira, not far from the Imam Kozikhon mausoleum, offers a wonderful selection of dishes, including a delicious, hearty Georgian soup known as kharcho, which combines beef, rice, cherry plum sauce and chopped walnuts.” — S.A.P.

Dilkor Lagman is a no-frills spot that’s a favorite of my husband’s. It’s known for hand-pulled noodle dishes like Uyghur-style lagman, a deeply satisfying, boldly spiced combination of chewy wheat noodles, stir-fried meat and vegetables.” — S.A.P.

“With seating both inside and on a multilevel terrace, Old Bukhara is the classic place to eat plov. They also have great kebabs — another Bukharan staple.” — D.C.

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