“Shall we sit outside?” asks guide Heather Domeney. “It’s a lovely day.” Originally from Tasmania, Domeney has lived in Helsinki for 23 years and has clearly adapted to the Nordic climate. While not actually raining, it’s so misty I can barely see the other side of the harbour.
Still, it’s the ideal weather for a hearty bowl of salmon, potato and dill soup, a creamy chowder that’s a year-round Finnish staple. I’m on a condensed version of Domeney’s Tastes of Helsinki tour, which aims to introduce visitors to Finland’s unique take on Nordic cuisine.
While cities like Stockholm and Copenhagen continue to enjoy worldwide acclaim for their innovative culinary scenes, Helsinki has flown somewhat under the radar. Which is odd, because it shares the same enthusiasm for seasonal produce and foraged ingredients. Perhaps Finns are just more modest.
During our three-hour stroll around the capital, Domeney introduces me to a range of Finnish favourites, from a savoury barley-filled pie from the Karelia region (an acquired taste) to a delicious almond and coffee cake named after Ellen Svinhufvud, the wife of Finland’s third president, who first served it in the 1930s.
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We also visit a state-run Alko (the only stores allowed to sell wine and spirits), where she points out Kyro, a Finnish gin that has won a swag of awards including World’s Best Gin. Next, we take a tour of an upmarket supermarket to check out the wide range of rye breads, pickled vegetables and salty liquorice (another acquired taste).
“Seasonality is a big part of everyday life,” says Domeney, as we sample mixed berries from a market stall near the harbour. While the tiny forest blueberries are moreish and sweet, the bright orange sea buckthorn berry is perhaps the most intensely citrus thing I’ve ever tasted. “They contain more vitamin C than an orange,” she says.
Although Helsinki has its fair share of swanky Michelin-starred establishments, it excels at more accessible and affordable eateries. Like Flor, a cosy new restaurant and wine bar that’s an offshoot of nearby Michelin green star-recipient Natura. Run by the same chef, David Alberti, it has a similar focus on sustainability and seasonal produce, but serves it in an intimate, minimalist space with just seven tables.
Alberti’s experience in award-winning kitchens (including Le Gavroche, the UK’s first three Michelin-starred restaurant) is evident both in the flawless presentation and the innovative flavour combinations. Standout dishes include tender pike perch in a rich bourguignon sauce and aged salmon with a piquant sea buckthorn tiger milk. It’s fine dining without the high price tag. The five-course “surprise” menu is just €49 ($85).
To understand what is possible when you’re ruthlessly uncompromising about using local produce, visit Skord. Aside from salt, every ingredient is from Finland. Which means no spices, no black pepper and no coffee or tea. To make it even more difficult, they insist that everything has to be grown outside or in the wild, so nothing is processed or mass-produced.
A rustic, nine-table venue with exposed brick walls, Skord offers a four- and six-course tasting menu that change daily. During my visit, highlights include a creamy chanterelle mushroom soup with tangy drops of garlic mustard oil and a rich pan-fried wild duck breast with pureed parsnip and rowan berries.
If limiting yourself to Finnish produce wasn’t challenging enough, they’ve also put the same restriction on their wines. Finland struggles to grow grapes, but berries thrive, so my meal is paired with a series of unexpectedly good berry-based wines. Particularly notable are a dry, sparkling redcurrant rosé from Tarkiainen Winery and a decadent raspberry dessert wine by Ainoa Winery that’s like autumn in a glass.
“We cook like our grandmas did,” explains the waiter. “They had to live from the forests and the fields. I have no idea what will be on the menu tomorrow.”
THE DETAILS
STAY
Conveniently located in the heart of the city, Hotel Kamp has been a Helsinki landmark since 1887. It recently added a new wing of luxury suites and will unveil an upgraded restaurant and spa later this year. From €320 ($555) a night. See hotelkamp.com
TOUR
The Tastes of Helsinki tour costs €130 ($225) a person. See heathershelsinki.com
Nordic specialist 50 Degrees North can organise a bespoke Finland itinerary including flights, accommodation, activities and meals. See fiftydegreesnorth.com
MORE
See myhelsinki.fi
The writer was a guest of 50 Degrees North and Helsinki Partners.
After abandoning a sensible career in IT, Rob McFarland now divides his time between Sydney, the US and Europe. He’s won six writing awards and regularly runs workshops for aspiring writers. Follow his travels on Instagram @mctraveller